British Design Explosion

The V&A major spring exhibition showcases the best of British design and creative talent from the 1948 'Austerity Olympics' to the summer of 2012. It's an overwhelming experience with so much to catch our attention!  

Alexander McQueen, Horn of Plenty collection (2009)

I would suggest you go in the morning when your mind is more open and to avoid the crowds, this comprehensive exhibition demands a certain level of awareness to admire all it has to offer.

It tells the story of British fashion, furniture, fine art, graphic design, photography, ceramics, architecture and industrial products over the past 60 years.

Jack Lights by Tom Dixon (1996) and Magazine Sofa by Michael Young (1994)

"As people around the world will be focusing on the UK in the summer of 2012 this is an ideal moment to showcase British innovation, taste and creativity." Martin Roth, Director of the V&A

I  particularly like the central gallery which explores the counter-cultural movements from 1960s 'Swinging London', through to the 1970s punk scene and the emergence of 'Cool Britannia' in the 1990s.

Tulle dress by Hussein Chalayan (2011)

If you love fashion, you can indulge in the most memorable moments of British creativity, from Mary Quant's liberating mini-dresses to the irreverent Vivienne Westwood and Hussein Chalayan's analytical and cross-disciplinary design approach.

There is also a spectacular Alexander McQueen evening gown from the Horn of Plenty collection (2009) and a flamboyant Dior haute couture dress (2000) by John Galliano, inspired by beggars' rags and the paintings of Egon Schiele.

John Galliano for Christian Dior (Spring/Summer 2000)

A beautiful Jean Shrimpton photographed by Terry O'Neil (1965) is also on display along with other great names such as David Bailey. You can also find iconic photographs of music giants such as the legendary Jimmy Hendrix, David Bowie and Mick Jagger.

It's impossible to do justice to such an electic exhibition but I have to mention Damien Hirst's Pharmacy (more to come next week when Tate Modern will present the first substantial survey of his work ever held in the UK) and a James Bond style 1961 E-Type Jaguar car.

Jean Shrimpton by Terry O'Neil (1965)

One of the curators is actually one of my former teachers from my MA on Fashion Studies at the London College of Fashion but he is now a renowned author and Principal of Edinburgh College of Art - Dr. Christopher Breward.

An accompanying exhibition catalogue British Design from 1948: Innovation in the Modern Age, edited by him and Ghislaine Wood, also an author and curator, is available from V&A Publishing (£40).

1961 E-Type Jaguar car

British Design 1948-2012: Innovation in the Modern Age
31 March - 12 August 2012
Victoria & Albert Museum


Other related blog posts:
Designing Women
McQueen and Blow immortalised by LaChapelle
Dior Couture by Demarchelier

London Spring

There is a fabulous energy in the air as London embraces the spring with warm sunny days this week. Birds sing and flowers bloom to the delight of those who are able to be outdoors and enjoy this magnificent weather.

Hermione de Paula A/W 12-13

Fashion is celebrating flowers this season, not only in print but also as tactile adornments. Hermione de Paula loves flower prints every season and her clothes include feather applications that are inviting to touch.

Nicholas Kirkwood shoe and Chalotte Olympia bag

But nature is an endless source of inspiration and other designers have adopted some of its elements into their creations such as Nicholas Kirkwood and Charlotte Olympia. 

Birds of Paradise flower

If you walk in one of London's parks, you can see beautifully arranged flower beds and street markets invite you to sprinkle them around the house to boost the energy and induce a serene atmosphere.

Portobello market

But you can also carry the spring with you by wearing them, just review my selection of the best looks from the catwalk in 3D Flower Power and double check your wardrobe, maybe this is the time to revive some of your old clothes, after all fashion comes around in circles.

Hermione de Paula A/W 12-13



Flowers can also be an effective way to communicate your feelings to someone special or to honour the memory of someone who has died. William Blake, the man who wrote insightful poetry 200 years ago is still lovingly remembered.


"If the doors of perception were cleansed
Everything would appear... as it is, infinite." William Blake

William Blake's headstone, Bunfield burial ground

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Buy Flowers on Sunday!
Street Vibes: Portobello Market

Dior Jewellery Faryland

Precious jewels have always fascinate us, fairy tales include exciting treasure hunts with wild adventures in exotic lands and legendary women such as Cleopatra would not be the same without their exquisite adornments.

Dior Joaillerie book (Rizzoli New York)

Elizabeth Taylor, the woman who was the most alluring Cleopatra in the silver screen, was renowned for her jewellery collection and her favourite stone was the green emerald.

Marilyn Monroe famously sang about diamonds as the ultimate companions, unlike men, their beauty and wealth never fade so women can totally rely on them which brings to mind The Picture of Dorian Gray, a 1890 novel by Oscar Wilde, already adapted to film more than once.

Reina Magnifica Sangria necklace, Dior Joaillerie

The beauty industry and plastic surgery have become the modern day instigators of the holy grail of eternal youth but it's just a trap, human beings are definitely not young and beautiful for ever unless they suffer a premature death.

But as Shirley Bassey sang in her powerful voice 'diamonds are forever' and fine jewellery can definitely be passed from generation to generation and constitute a valuable family asset.

Idylle à Valparaiso bracelet, Dior Joaillerie

My favourite designer is Victoire de Castellane and now you can enter her creative world with Dior Joaillerie, an inspiring book published this month in the UK by Rizzoli.

"Victoire de Castellane brings her free-spirited nature to the secular savoir faire of jewellery, which she expresses by experimenting with larger-than-life forms, wild burst of psychedelic colour and excessive details. Her creations have the ability to cast magic spells, inspire wonder and stimulate interaction." Michèle Heuzé

Since launching Dior fine jewellery in 1998, she has revolutionized the world of high jewellery design, from diamond necklaces crafted to look like tied ribbon to sea-creatures re-imagined through fiery opals, her creations are incredibly otherworldly!   

Book cover

© Dior Joaillerie
by Michèle Heuzé
(Rizzoli New York, £47.50)


Other related blog posts:
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Dior Couture by Demarchelier
Marion Cotillard in Dior Comedy

 

Princess Diana's Dresses

Diana: glimpses of a modern princess is the new display at Kensington Palace with a small but rather special selection of dresses worn by Diana, Princess of Wales. She had a significant influence on British style and fashion and these dresses reflect some important and memorable moments in her public life.

Princess Diana, Thailand, 1988

You can see the evening dress which created a splash in the newspapers, a shocking Catherine Walker gown worn in Thailand for the Royal tour in February 1988. The Princess looked ravishing with orchids and bougainvilaea flowers in her hair.

Princess Diana and Princess Grace of Monaco, 1981

There is also on display the famous black strapless evening gown by Emanuel which the Princess wore during an early official engagement with the Prince of Wales, which has never been on public display before, and a stunning sleek cocktail dress by Gianni Versace which she wore several years later.





Princess Diana in Versace



"We have carefully selected this collection of exquisite dresses to illustrate to visitors Diana's evolving style and the important role fashion played in creating her public image." Deirdre Murphy, curator

Illustrations by Julie Verhoven

Beautiful illustrations by artist Julie Verhoeven cover the walls preceding the room where the dresses are on display, capturing different moments in Princess Diana's life.

Princess Diana by Mario Testino

And I have to mention the amazing portrait by Mario Testino, where she looks stunning through the lens of her favourite photographer. In May last year, when he celebrated his 30-year career as one of fashion's most revered figures, Testino confessed Princess Diana was his favourite subject.

Princess Diana's exhibition at Kensington Palace

This exhibition marks the re-opening of Kensignton Palace after a £12 million project to transform the visitor experience in time for Her Majesty The Queen's Diamond Jubilee and the London Olympics. 

Kensington Palace

This project includes a new presentation of the magnificent State Apartments, a major permanent exhibition dedicated to Queen Victoria's life and reign in her own words, improved visitor facilities and beautiful landscape public gardens reconnecting the Palace to Kensington Gardens.

The wedding dress Queen Victoria wore for her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840

Diana: Glimpses of a modern princess
26 March - 2 September 2012
Kensington Palace


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Happy Birthday Mario Testino!
Dresses for the Oscars

Art Deco Fashion

London is fascinating, where else in the world can you go for a free lunchtime lecture about the stunning style of the Art Deco era? Dr Clare Rose presented this interesting period with beautiful illustrations and photographs at the V&A.




Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire, Swing Time, 1935



At the moment, fashion seems wholly taken up with reminiscences of Art Deco, Gucci is the most notorious example this season but a reinterpretation of The Great Gatsby (a novel by F. Scott Fitzgerald) in the cinema next Christmas (with Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio) means it won't go away anytime soon.

Carey Mulligan and Leonard DiCaprio. (Photo: Xclusive)

Dr Clare Rose identified four different themes in Art Deco Fashion - exoticism, movement, democratization and pleasure. It is said that people tend to make love after a funeral, it's not an attempt to defy death but a natural progression of the cycle of creation and destruction.

George Barbier: Master of Art Deco by Hiroshi Unno (Rizzoli)

We cannot forget Art Deco emerged after the First World War and flourished internationally throughout the 1930s, when the world was facing the Great Depression, the most severe and widespread economic crisis of the 20th century, and World War II. 

Evening dress by Vionnet, 1938
(photo: metmuseum.org)

So it's hardly surprising that pleasure is a defining theme of Art Deco Fashion, during hard times people seem to cling to life more vividly, dancing away and embracing a more active lifestyle, playing sports and enjoying the pleasure of the outdoors.

'Little black dress' by Chanel, 1927

Fashion followed all these radical transformations and couturiers designed clothes suitable for all these activities, Coco Chanel is one of the most well-known for liberating women, with carefree and easy to move pieces such as this dress, considered by American Vogue as the "ford" of fashion.

Evening dress by Madeleine Vionnet, flat and modelled, 1920
(Musee des Arts decoratifs, Paris)

Other designers were also outstanding, as Dr Clare Rose said "Vionnet totally rethought the way clothes were constructed and worked with fabric manufacturers to create new materials for couture, with lighter weight."

Film Fashionland magazine, London September, 1934

Movies played an important role in fashion, people would get information about the latest trends from films and there were different magazines emerging with images from movie stars during this period, offering advice on how to look like them. This doesn't seem to have changed that much...

Cloche hat, 1925 (V&A)

It was undoubtedly a great way to spend my lunchtime! Then I went to Hyde Park to welcome spring and have a moment of peace and quiet, away from all the job hunting worries and the painful disappointment of being rejected by Central Saint Martins, where I was hoping to do an MA on Womenswear Design...  

Hyde Park

Other related blogs:
Period Style: Art Deco
Coco Chanel, an Ongoing Inspiration
Balenciaga Evening

Peplum Fashion Trend

Ruffles have already been around for spring/summer 2010 but now they come back, not only for this season but also for autumn/winter 2012/13, particularly focusing on the revamp of the pencil skirt - the so-called peplum, flaring elegantly at the waist.

Burberry Prorsum (vogue.it)

My selection of the best looks from the latest catwalk shows includes not only established brands such as Burberry Prorsum but also some surprises.

Christopher Bailey has indeed created one of the most flattering examples of the peplum trend for Burberry Prorsum, you can see yourself walking down the street with one of these skirts, adding movement and sensuality to your day.

Lanvin (vogue.it)

But if you're wondering how to translate this trend for the evening, look no further. Lanvin has done so with his unique mastery over cutting fabric and playing up with volume and body contours.




David Koma (vogue.it)



David Koma, who has dressed celebrities from the music industry such as Beyonce, presented an artistic black and white version for a strong fashion statement.

Thierry Mugler (vogue.it)

Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga's stylist and creative director for Thierry Mugler, has also chosen these colours but has produced a more dramatic interpretation of the peplum trend.

Antonio Berardi (vogue.it)

On the other hand, Antonio Berardi focused on the richness of the fabrics, letting texture play a prominent role, these clothes could easily fit in for an evening at the opera or a special dinner.

Ermanno Scervino and Bottega Veneta (vogue.it)

For a splash of colour, Ermanno Scervino has presented a beautiful dark green dress while Bottega Veneta added a bit of sparkle and long leather gloves to a chic purple ensemble.



Spring Summer 2012 trends:
Period Style: Art Deco
A Match Made in Heaven
Swinging Pleats
3D Flower Power
Underwater World

Designing Women

This is the name of the exhibition now on display at the Fashion and Textile Museum about post-war British Textiles, featuring three women artists working in England in the 1950s who were pivotal in the artistic revolution of this period - Lucienne Day, Jacqueline Groag and Marian Mahler.

Designing Women, Fashion and Textile Museum

Original artist designs with bold abstract pattern, as well as the use of saturated colour, marked a dramatic departure from conventional furnishing fabrics. This new wave of bold textile designs, helped to bring the influences of the art world into the contemporary home.




Designing Women, Fashion and Textile Museum

This exhibition reveals the stunning originality and creativity of post-war women textile designers whilst highlighting the limited recognition that their work has received.

Designing Women, Fashion and Textile Museum

In the mid-twentieth-century the concept of design was limited and the opportunities for women to contribute were affected by wider attitudes to work, education and childcare.

Designing Women, Fashion and Textile Museum

Through their bold and avant-garde designs, these self-made women were able to give hope for the future, after the devastating physical and emotional damage of the war.

We have to admire their prolific and versatile nature and the way they managed to overcome circumstances and achieve success.



Designing Women
Post-War British Textiles
Fashion and Textile Museum
16 March - 16 June 2012

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The Photography of Eve Arnold
Coco Chanel, an Ongoing Inspiration

George Harrison by Scorsese

We live in an era of so much information that it can pollute our perception. But why follow the crowd? We have a choice and can select carefully what to put in our mind, making a conscientious decision about what to watch, read and listen. It's important to continue learning with a questioning attitude.

George Harrison

TV has become brainless and heartless but sometimes you may hit the jackpot and last night was one of those rare occasions. There was a documentary about the late George Harrison, one of the Beatles, directed by Martin Scorsese - 'Living in a Material World'.

My experience in broadcasting told me that whenever you edit something, you can push your own agenda or be impartial and communicate things as they truly are, in this particular case, you can sense the quest for authenticity by Scorsese.

It was fascinating to go through George Harrison's incredible life journey, noticing all the changes in the world, in people's attitudes and particularly in himself and how his spiritual search led to insightful statements still valid today.  

From the beginning of the Beatles through to his psychedelic phase and involvement with Indian music and religion, it's inspiring to see a mundane man turning his attention within and trying to find answers to questions most of us avoid, about life and death and the meaning of all this.

His friendship with Ravi Shankar was one of the most remarkable, both of them have a very special presence and their words have the weight of deep reflection.

There is so much to learn from this documentary, from the futility of a decadent lifestyle to the importance of contributing to the world in whatever way you can, considering your own talent and character, and how you can embrace change in each moment.

This is a man who stayed true to himself and was brave enough to face his own demons. Certainly inspiring!



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Cape Fashion

In a time of overwhelming exposure, both for those who seek it and explore it to their best advantage and for those who would rather control their privacy, the cape comes back to fashion. I wonder if this is a nostalgia of the secrecy and mysterious allure of the past, when imagination played a more prominent role...




Alexander McQueen and Marni (vogue.it)



Just as a yo-yo, fashion is cyclic and the cape is certainly a good example of this phenomenon. The Autumn/ Winter catwalk shows saw a revival of this ancient form of dressing, they were actually common in Medieval Europe and caped overcoats were also popular for men during the Victorian era.

Dolce & Gabbana and Jason Wu

Ladies used to wear it when in full evening dress to cover and protect the fine fabrics underneath. This long and roomy comfortable garment emerged as a trend for next Autumn/ Winter, not only to keep us warm but also featuring opulent embellishments as seen in Milan and New York.

Yves Saint Laurent (vogue.it)

In Paris, Stefano Pilati has created a more dramatic cape for Yves Saint Laurent by adding a bit of leather and twisting it in an elegant way. Valentino also used leather - another big trend for next season - producing a beautiful cape entirely made of this long lasting material.

Valentino (vogue.it)

On the other hand, Moschino has presented a sweet version of the cape, almost girly, so much so that you can start imagining a fairy tale. This is definitely a strong fashion statement, without being overtly sexy, it does focus on comfort without compromising on elegance.

Moschino (vogue.it)

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Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs

With Marc Jacobs you can only expect the unexpected, his collections for Louis Vuitton are always surprising, from dominatrix style to innocent girly, this is a man who is not afraid of getting out his safety zone.

Spring-Summer 2012 runway presentation
©Louis Vuitton/ Sølve Sundsbø (Rizzoli book)

He loves having dinner with friends in one of the top fashion cities in the world and enjoys art exhibitions. Louis Vuitton's customers couldn't be more happy about this, his collaborations with artists end up creating it bags and giving the brand a vibrant and unique artistic infusion.

Takashi Murakami is one of the most iconic Louis Vuitton collaborations and he's now working with Yayoi Kusama, who is currently the subject of a fascinating exhibition at Tate Modern.

Photograph of Marc Jacobs with Naomi Campbell by Jean-Paul Goude, 2007
© Jean-Paul Goude (Rizzoli book)

Jacobs is open enough to embrace other people's contribution including the renowned stylist and Love magazine editor Katie Grand, who has also helped in the major exhibition about Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs which has just opened in Paris.

"My favourite place in the world is wherever I am. Over time, I've learnt it's important to be at ease with oneself wherever that may be." Marc Jacobs




Spring-Summer 2003, © Craig McDean (Rizzoli book)



Bernard Arnault, Head of LVMH, hired Marc Jacobs in 1997 and his ability to spot talent allowed the transformation of the Louis Vuitton brand into an edgy and fully fledged fashion house.

Marc Jacobs inspires a strong loyalty and his alliance and with Louis Vuitton can now be admired at Les Arts Décoratifs, where there is a retrospective parallelism between him and the man who has created and given his name to the brand in 1854, highlighting their contributions to the fashion world. 

Rizzoli book cover

In Association with Les Arts Décoratifs, Rizzoli has published a book edited by Pamela Golbin. It presents the roles these two men have played in turning a small carriage trade workshop in nineteenth-century Paris into one of the twenty-first-century's most successful and recognised global luxury brands.

By examining two divergent but often similar careers one hundred years apart, Louis Vuitton / Marc Jacobs is not only a layered study of the evolution of a luxury brand in the past 150 years, but also a celebration of technical and design innovations in the new century.



Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs
Les Arts Décoratifs (Paris)
9 March - 16 September 2012

© Louis Vuitton / Marc Jacobs
In Association with Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris
Edited by Pamela Golbin
(£47.50, Rizzoli New York)

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3D Flower Power